"I've got a horrible headache. I think I'm dehydrated...and my legs are killing me."

Kristin had completed her first Thai kickboxing workout. For two grueling hours she trained at Sorvorapin Gym, located in the heart of Bangkok's backpacker zone.

Sorvorapin Gym evokes the gyms of Stallone's Rocky films: Inside the open air structure black mold creeps towards the tin roof. Sweaty feet shuffle back and forth on a ragged carpet. The "incense" of body odor, pollution, and lemongrass hangs in the air as 70s disco (Gloria Gaynor's "I Will Survive") blares from overhead speakers punctuated by a cacophony of "hoomphs" thuds, grunts, and growls. No saunas at Sorvorapin. No motivational posters. No snack bar. No chrome machines. No peppy personal trainers in spandex. No air fresheners, air-conditioning, or stylish decor.

Old school.

Fun, Fitness, Fighting

While many people study Muay Thai kickboxing for self-defense benefits, large numbers of foreigners embrace the sport for fitness rather than its martial qualities. Training delivers excellent health benefits: greater strength, fat loss, increased endurance, increased quickness, tremendous flexibility. As the sport increases in popularity worldwide foreigners are flocking to Thailand to train in the sport's homeland. Some study for a week or two while serious fighters may spend years honing their skills.

A number of gyms in the Kingdom welcome both serious fighters and those interested in a less-than-intense experience. Gyms assign a personal trainer to work one on one with each student. Instructors tailor the routine to the goals of each fighter (fun, fitness, sport, or professional).

While the sport offers powerful self-defense and health benefits, many cite cultural reasons as their prime motive for studying Muay Thai in Thailand. Chris Moses spent two months in a gym in Chang Mai. He trained three times a week but had no intention of entering the ring against an opponent. Rather, he trained as a means to a deeper experience: "It was fascinating watching and talking with the Thai fighters. Muay Thai is more than kickboxing; it's a unique part of the country's culture." Through training, Chris befriended Thais he would never have met on the tourist trail.

Kristin trained for similar reasons, "Honestly, I hate to exercise. The thing I liked most was working with the Thai instructors, meeting other fighters, learning about the sport, and going to professional bouts. I got a deeper understanding of Thai culture by doing this instead of just sight-seeing like a typical tourist."

A deep camaraderie often develops between fighters at a gym. Social events facilitate this. Students attend professional matches together and support fighters from their own gym when they face an opponent in the ring. These events offer opportunities to form lasting friendships.

A Typical Training Regimen
Most workouts consist of six thirty-minute segments: warm up, shadowboxing, bag work, pad work, clenching, and conditioning.

Kristin's warm up began with ten minutes of jump roping. She smiled and laughed through the routine stumbling and tripping as other fighters cut the air. Her trainer then led her through a series of callisthenics and stretches.

Step two is shadowboxing in front of mirrors. This is where students learn proper technique. Kristin's instructor taught her the basics of stance, jab, punch, front kick, knee kick, and roundhouse kick. For 30 minutes she practiced these in combination in front of the mirror. As she did so, the trainer paused often to correct her technique, adjust her position, or demonstrate an important point.